TV ANTENNA
INSTALLATION TOOLS, MASTS & HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS
CHAPTER Three: TOOLS, MASTS
& HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS
Tools
The majority of the
tools and equipment you will need for most tv antenna
installations are apparent. The following is alist of useful tools
and miscellaneous materials thatmight also come in handy.
1. A complete set of
nut drivers (spin-tights).
2. A set of ratchets
and sockets.
3. A pocket compass,
for orienting the TV antenna and setting up the rotor when the compass bearing(s) of the transmitter tower(s) is known.
4. A drill brace with a
wide assortment of bits.
5. A good quality
leather tool belt.
6. A crimping tool for
fastening coaxial connectors.
7. Caulking compound
for sealing the holes where transmission line enters the house.
8. Roofing tar (plastic
roof cement), for sealing around
screws on the roof.
9. Silicone grease for
waterproofing coaxial cable connectors.
10. A sledge hammer for
driving in ground rods.
11. A level or plumb
bob for ensuring that the TV antenna mast is installed perpendicularly.
12. A map to aid TV
antenna orientation. (Aircraft maps are ideal. Most airports sell them.)
13. A strong step
ladder (in addition to extension ladders).
14. A magnetic stud
finder.
15. A small, portable
TV that operates on both standard house current (117 volts AC) and batteries.
Masts
Most antenna hardware
catalogs list a wide variety of mounts and masts. Most however, are
variations of a ew basic types. By taking into account signal
strength and ease of installation, it’s not difficult deciding
which site, mount, and hardware to use. A mast is used in every
installation. The mast is the vertical tubing that supports the
antenna. Conventional masts are available in 5 and 10 foot lengths.
Telescoping mast units are available in 20, 30, 40 and 50 foot
lengths. Each type is available in various wall thicknesses that
provide different degrees of strength and rigidity. Your choice
will depend on the height, weight, and size of the TV antenna being
installed and also on wind conditions in the area. Both
conventional and telescoping masts are available in galvanized
steel and in high-tensile, acrylic-coated steel. Acrylic-coated
masts are preferable because of their greater strength and
durability.
MOUNTING SITES AND
RELATED
PROCEDURES
Attic
Installations
An attic installation
(Figure 4-3) may work in areas where strong signals are present. In
most cases, an attic installation is the easiest, fastest, most
economical, and most convenient installation. There are a few
conditions however that can prohibit an attic installation. Shallow
attics that are obstructed by rafter supports may not accommodate
the size TV antenna required for the installation. Most attics are
not large enough to accommodate multi-antenna arrays and rotors.
Also, aluminum foil on insulation, aluminum or steel siding, metal
gutters at the attic level, and metal lath under older plaster
walls all can interfere to some degree with reception. To determine
if an attic installation is suitable, take a test tv antenna,
a field-strength meter and a portable TV up into the attic and
check the signal level and picture quality. If the signal level is
sufficient and there is room enough to properly orient the antenna,
assemble the TV antenna in the attic and attach one end of
the transmission line to the antenna terminals. Then prepare the
mount for the TV antenna. Several roof-type mounting
brackets and swivel mounts are adaptable for use in attic
installations. The mounting bracket is used to attach the short
mast to a rafter or rafter support. The TV antenna is then mounted
on the other end of the mast. The TV antenna however, must not
touch the attic floor. Also, remember that the antenna should be
attached to the mast right side up, even though the installation
appears to be the reverse of an outside installation. An
alternative method of mounting the mast is to flatten one end of
the mast with a hammer and drill a hole in it through which a nail,
screw, or bolt can be inserted for securing the mast to a rafter or
rafter support. However, this method requires more time and effort
than does the bracket method.
Instead of using a
mast, you may suspend the TV antenna from the inside of the roof
with guy wires or nylon rope. But don’t let the guy wires touch the
antenna elements. They will short out the TV antenna. Once you have
the TV antenna mounted or suspended, you are ready to run the
transmission line. If at all possible, keep it indoors. Coaxial
cable is the best transmission line for any TV antenna
installation. It should be used instead of twinlead even in attic
installations. Selection and installation of the correct
transmission line is described in the chapter installing the
transmission line. After you have run the transmission line, use a
compass and field-strength meter to orient the TV antenna toward
the signal source(s). Check the picture and sound on all channels
before you tighten down the clamp that secures the TV antenna to
the mast. Some manufacturers make special TV antennas for attic
installations. These antennas however, tend to be omni-directional.
This means they intercept signals equally well from all directions.
Consequently, they will also pick up interference more readily than
a good directional TV antenna.
TOOLS, MASTS & HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS
Chimney
Mounts
Chimney Mounts are used more frequently than other types of
mounts, but they often are not the best option. Although they are
relatively easy to install, the smoke and gases from a chimney can
shorten the life of the antenna and significantly impair its
performance. chimney installation is practical only if the
chimney is sturdy and vertical. Never mount an antenna on a
deteriorated chimney. During moderate too high winds an unguyed
mast taller than 10 feet can exert enough leverage to break off an
unstable chimney. If you choose a chimney mount, use enough mast
to place the TV antenna above most of the smoke and gases.
However, to avoid overstressing the chimney, do not mount the TV
antenna more than 10 feet above the top of the chimney. If the
height of the TV antenna must exceed 10 feet to receive
satisfactory signals, the mast must be properly
guyed. Securing the chimney-mounted tv antenna and
minimizing the stress on the chimney requires the mounting straps
to be properly spaced. The top strap should be placed as high up on
the chimney as possible. If the chimney has a crown or projecting
cap, place the top strap directly under it. The bottom strap should
be placed 4 feet below the top strap. If the chimney isn’t long
enough to permit this, place the bottom strap as far down on the
chimney as possible. If the mast must be 10 feet above the chimney
top, don’t use a chimney mount unless you can space the straps at
least 30 inches apart. For masts less than 10 feet above the
chimney top, the straps should be spaced no less than 24 inches
apart. Be sure the straps are level, with no kinks or twists. The
easiest way to level straps is to line them up along the nearest
course of bricks. Straps should be centered on the bricks – not
over the mortar joint. Pull each strap tight, line it up so that it
is level, and then tighten it just enough to hold it in place.
Before the straps are tightened completely, fasten the mast to the
mounting bracket. (It is assumed that the TV antenna has already
been clamped securely to the mast, and one end of the transmission
line has been connected to the TV antenna terminals.) Align the
mast so that it is vertical. Then completely tighten the mounting
straps. Next, orient the TV antenna. Finally, tighten the clamps
that hold the mast to the mounting. Be sure the clamps are tight
enough to prevent the mast from being rotated by the wind load on
the TV antenna.
Roof
Mounts
There are two basic
types of roof mounts: a base mount and a tripod. Tripods are
stronger and more rigid than base mounts, but they are also more
expensive. When given a choice, use a tripod.
TOOLS, MASTS & HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS
However, if cost
savings or limited space require it, a properly guyed base mount
will usually work. Unlike a chimney mount, a base mount holds the
mast at only one point, the bottom. Consequently, the mast also
must be supported by guy wires, regardless of the mast length.
Correct installation of either type of roof mount requires great
care and should not be attempted without a helper. Both types of
mounts should be secured to the roof with either bolts or lag
screws. These should be screwed into only solid wood like a rafter
or a truss section. You can locate these with a stud finder. If you
must fasten the mount to the roof in an area where a bolt or screw
cannot reach a rafter, send your assistant into the attic with a
large square of wood 1-1/2" thick, to act as a backing plate. Have
him hold this wood against the entry points of the screws or bolts
so that the mount is firmly anchored in both the roof sheathing and
the wooden block. This will give the mount needed stability. When
installing a base mount, attach the base plate to the roof in the
manner just described, and place the mast (with TV antenna, guy
ring, and guy wires attached), into the U-bolt that has been
fastened loosely to the mount. Do not let the bottom of the mast
touch the roof; it may tear a hole in the shingles. Since a base
mount must be guyed, an easy way to raise the mast is to first
fasten one of the guy wire screw eyes to the roof peak on the end
of the roof opposite the direction in which the antenna is lying.
Run the end of the guy wire through the screw eye. Have your
assistant slowly raise the mast while you pull the guy wire through
the screw eye (Figure 4-10). When the mast is vertical, the guy
wire you are holding will be approximately the right length for
permanent installation. Temporarily secure this guy wire. Install
the other guy wires while your helper holds the mast in a vertical
position. Check the mast with a level as you tighten and
permanently secure each wire. When the mast is vertical and each
guy wire has been tightened, orient the antenna and firmly tighten
the U-bolt (clamp) on the base mount. Tripods, as noted earlier,
are a stronger, more rigid type of roof mount. The most common
tripod mounts are 3, 5, and 10 feet high. The 3 foot tripod is most
commonly used. A tripod mount can be installed and leveled before
the mast is inserted. It should always be mounted so that the TV
antenna can be folded down along the peak of the roof. This will
enable you to lower it more easily should repairs or adjustments
become necessary in the future. Even though tripods are very
stable, any tripod-mounted mast over 10 feet high should be guyed.
Ensure the sturdiness of the tripod by anchoring. To protect the
roof, use a pitch pad seal under each tripod leg. Coat all lag
bolts with roofing tar or other sealant to prevent leaks around
them. Roofing tar or silicone should be used liberally around all
holes, bolts, screws, nails, and eye screws.
TOOLS, MASTS & HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS
Wall
Mounts
Many types of wall
mount brackets are available. However, many of them are poorly made
and will not withstand more than a moderate wind. Buy only the best
quality wall mount brackets. When installing a wall mount, space
the brackets as far apart as possible (or practical). Generally,
the farther apart you space the brackets, the stronger the
installation will be. Be sure the brackets extend out from the wall
far enough for the mast to clear the roof eaves. As with roof
mounts, screw wall mount brackets only into solid wood, and use
caulking or other durable sealant around screws.
Mounting from the
Ground
Many times you will not
want (or will not be able) to mount an TV antenna on the roof. One
of the best alternatives to roof mounting is mounting from the
ground. With a firm base support and one or more wall mount
brackets, a ground mount installation is exceptionally sturdy and
long lasting. A good ground mount may also eliminate the need of
guy wires. Correctly preparing the base of a ground mount is very
important. The antenna mast should rest on something more solid and
stable than just bare earth. If your installation site is on a
solid deck or patio, the base is already prepared for you. When you
have to prepare the base yourself, dig a hold about 2 feet deep at
the spot where the mast will contact the ground. Remember that the
base hole must line up with the wall bracket(s) so that the mast
will be vertical. A plumb line and bob suspended from the roof eave
can be used to determine the correct positions of the base hole and
wall brackets. Use bricks or flat stones in the bottom of the hole
as a footing to prevent the base of the mast from moving. Concrete
can also be used as a footing but you’ll have to wait for it to dry
before you can put up the mast. Once the base is prepared, mount a
wall bracket at least 10 feet above the ground or as high as
possible. Remember, the farther apart the wall brackets are placed,
the sturdier the installation.If there is 5 feet or more left
between the first wall bracket and the roof eave, add another wall
bracket. Be sure the base hole and the wall brackets line up so
that the mast will be vertical. This can be determined easily by
suspending a plumb bob and line from the roof eave into the base
hole. Also remember that the wall bracket(s) must extend out from
the wall far enough so that the mast clears the roof eaves. Be sure
the screws of each wall bracket are anchored in solid wood. Screw
them into the wall studs.
TOOLS, MASTS & HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS 13
Firmly clamp the
antenna to the upper end of the mast. Insert the mast into the base
hole or rest it on the deck or patio. Vertically position the mast
by "walking" it up hand over hand. Rest it against the wall
bracket(s). Loosely fasten the mast to the wall bracket(s). After
determining that the mast is truly perpendicular, tighten the
bracket(s) a little more. Next, orient the antenna. After the
antenna has been oriented, securely tighten the wall bracket clamps
around the mast. Finally, if a base hole is being used, fill in the
hole and firmly tamp the soil around the base of the mast.
Towers
TV antennas are mounted
on towers when exceptional height (35 feet or more) is
required for adequate reception or when an unusually large TV
antenna array must be used. Although they are very sturdy
installations if properly installed, towers can be very difficult
and dangerous to erect. Tower manufacturers’ instructions and
specifications usually include a large number of warnings and
precautions that must be strictly followed. The best advice that
can be given about tower installations before attempting one of
your own, is to work with an experienced tower installer on one or
more installations. If possible, have an experienced installer
assist you with your first tower installation. If you do find
yourself involved in a tower installation, be prepared for
some heavy work and for the possibility of having to climb
well above the height of the average roof. If you must climb a
tower, use an attachable work platform with a safety ring and
safety belt. These are available from some tower
manufacturers.
CAUTION: Before
climbing any tower, first check the condition of the structure and
the guy wires to make sure the installation is safe. Even a newly
installed tower may have defects that make it dangerous to climb.
In most cases, a properly guyed 40 or 50 foot telescoping mast can
be substituted for a 40 to 50 foot tower installation. It is not
only easier and less dangerous to install, it is also significantly
less expensive. A detailed discussion about the various types of
towers and the procedures for installing each of them would require
more space than is available in this manual. The most accurate and
helpful sources for such information is the extremely detailed
instructions that most tower manufacturers provide with their
towers.
Proceed to: Installing Transmission
Line
Go to:
How to Install a TV
Antenna Tripod
How to Install a TV Antenna Eave
Mount
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